Monthly Archives: November 2010

Welcome “Our Man in Omaha” as a regular contributor to this Blog

Omaha is a great restaurant and entertainment town.  I don’t think I’d be out of line if I suggested that Omaha has a long history of steak houses only rivaled by Kansas City.  It has also overcome some poor civic development choices.  I felt terrible watching the wrecking balls tearing nearly all of the downtown core down during the late ’70s.  What went up in its place was antiseptic and downright antisocial.  It took nearly thirty years, but now much of downtown Omaha is now thriving with restaurants, bars, a nightlife, and a large assortment of interesting stores catering to a demographic not well served by Des Moines.  Omaha also has interesting pockets of very loyal neighborhoods with diners and coffee shops.

So, having our very own “Our Man in Omaha” to report on what is going on there and what is worth visiting is going to be exciting.  It is only two hours away and offers a nice diversion without hauling it all the way to Minneapolis, Kansas City, or Chicago.  Now, keep in mind that he travels in a very different crowd than I do. I’m just too old for some of those places.  I’m looking forward to more reports.


Lucky Bucket Pre-Prohibition Lager

Lucky Bucket Brewing is a microbrewery that opened in Omaha a few years ago.   It might seem strange for a smallish Midwestern town to have a big microbrewery (that’s not a brewpub), but Omaha has a great tradition of brewing.  Metz, Krug, Falstaff, and Storz all had breweries in the 18 and 1900′s in Omaha.

By far the most popular and accessible beer that Lucky Bucket makes is their “pre-prohibition lager,” perhaps a nod to the brewing traditions of Omaha’s past.  It’s available on draft in a lot of bars and it’s very easy to find on the shelves.  The lager competes with the big domestics for the easy-drinking crowd, and while the 6-7 dollar price tag for a six-pack can’t match the dirt-cheap price of PBR, Miller Lite, or (God forbid) Keystone Light, it’s usually among the cheapest of the American microbrews on the shelves these days.

Even though many of my friends cherish Pabst Blue Ribbon for its surprising inconsistency (each can is a different experience!) you always know what you get when you crack a Lucky Bucket.

And what you get is a simple, nutty, creamy beer.  It has a dry aftertaste and doesn’t hang around very long.  It’s obviously meant for easy drinking, but it has a punch of extra flavor above and beyond most watery domestics.  This extra twinge of flavor makes me a bit worried; it might be too flavorful for the average Bud-head, and beer snobs might scoff at its comparatively simple flavors.  But for me (I’m not a Bud-head, but neither am I a true beer snob), it fills a niche – tastier than domestics and easier than microbrews hopped-up beyond insanity.

If you’re in the area I highly recommend a tour of the Lucky Bucket facilities.  The guys who brew it are enthusiastic and generous.  They’ll give you abundant samples of everything fresh from the vats, enough to make your head spin.  They’ll also run you through how all their beautiful brewing equipment works.

Lucky Bucket brews two other beers, an IPA and a cask-aged dark beer called Certified Evil.  There’s also a sister company, Solas Distillery, that makes vodka, whiskey, and rum.  I’ll have more (and more delicious) reviews of these in the future.


Vacuum Pot Coffee Makers

Of all the various and myriad ways with which to make coffee, perhaps the strangest, most arcane method is the vacuum pot. It is certainly the most visually striking. Run a Google image search for vacuum pot coffee makers, and you’ll see what I mean. They tend to resemble laboratory instruments for a Victorian-era alchemist. As you can see in the picture, the lower bulb holds the water and the upper section holds the coffee grounds. Between them is a glass tube with a cotton filter.

Vacuum Pot

The ideal gas law in action

Not only do they look weird, the method by which they make the coffee is also unique. The vacuum pot exploits the relationship between temperature, pressure, and volume by heating the water, which boils into steam. The steam expands, pushing the water up through the tube and the filter, and into the upper section with the grounds. The water brews directly with the coffee grounds until you remove the heating element. Then the steam cools and creates a vacuum and the brewed coffee in the upper section is pulled back through the filter. This creates and audible sucking sound and leaves the grounds almost completely dry.

And the coffee tastes wonderful. It has a kick of strong flavor that’s hard to get with most other methods. It’s easy to make too strong, but properly brewed it almost tastes like an espresso.

Making coffee with a vacuum pot is a really fun experience. Lots of careful preparation and measurement brings back fond memories of Bunsen burners, redox equations, and tritation (well, not so much the redox equations). It rescues the daily chore of making coffee and transforms it into an archaic and pleasurable experience. Indeed, vacuum pots were among the first modern coffee makers, first introduced in the mid 1800′s.

However, it takes a long time, which means that it’s strictly a weekend ritual for me. Vacuum pots are also expensive and delicate, generally running around $50 a pop. A far cry from a $20 Target electric dripolator with all the bells and whistles.

It’s definitely not my primary coffee maker. That’s a trusty old French press, of course. But it’s great fun to use and show off and makes wonderful, strong coffee.

Vacuum Pot with Coffee

Yama 3 cup Vacuum Pot Coffee maker


King Estate Signature Collection Pinot Noir 2008

This is a classic Oregonian Pinot Noir.  It is a fairly highly rated wine and came in at $40+ at Mojos.  It was very drinkable and, like a lot of Pinot Noirs, did not have any strong smell or taste like a Bordeaux or California Cabernet. It is, overall fairly mild. We had ordered an assortment of dishes (beef, pork, scallops and chicken) and needed something that could work for all of us. I would have liked a slightly more potent and opinionated wine, but we all have to get along. The member of our party who ordered the scallops was quite satisfied with the wine.  I would describe it as a mild wine with very mild tannins, some acid, and a bit of fruit without being a fruity wine. It was not especially sweet, either.  It has no leather or strong oak taste or smell and has zero “funk” to it.  It is a very pretty wine, with a bright ruby color even in the dim light of our room. It is about $28 if found in a store (internet pricing).

King Estate Pinot Noir

King Estate Pinot Noir


What goes into a good cup of coffee?

I am a recent convert to the joys of drinking coffee.  I grew up in a household of coffee drinkers, but the coffee was so awful that I could not see the attraction. It frequently came out of a Sanka bottle and was bitter and nasty.  Half the time the coffee in the pot was leftover from the day before, just reheated.   But then I started to get into espressos, lattes and cappuccinos  and I was hooked. I’ve since learned a lot about how to make and enjoy great coffee.

If you want to enjoy really good coffee there are two routes that you can take. First, you can simply buy each cup of coffee from a good local coffee shop. This is easy, but expensive. The second way is to brew your own coffee, whether as regular “Americano” style or as a espresso, latte, or cappuccino.

I will skip the option of buying finished coffee.  Here are my quick tips for making great coffee.

1. Great Coffee begins with great beans.  You need to buy roasted beans that will work well for what it is you want to make. If you want a regular cup of coffee, then buy a lighter roast. These beans will be a lighter shade of brown.  For a full-flavored espresso you can go with a dark “french” style roasted bean.  If you want a particular flavor, coffee beans from different regions offer slightly different tastes.  A Kenyan free trade bean I recently tried, has a “tang” taste to it.  It was a bit too much for me but blended with other beans made a good blend for a latte, where you need some stronger flavors to punch through the milk and other flavorings. We buy our beans from Zanzibar’s on Ingersoll and Greene Bean Coffee in Jefferson, Iowa.  To buy Zanzibar’s coffee we go directly to the shop at 2723 Ingersoll. They are continually roasting new batches of beans. Tell them what it is that you want to do with the beans and they will help you choose the best beans, based on your taste preference and the current supply.  One thing that I’ve learned over the years is that there is no prejudice against blending different beans. If you want a more complex coffee, blending different beans is the best way to go.  Zanzibar’s excells at putting together a House Blend that is great for lattes.   We obtain our Greene Bean Coffee from the Iowa Food Cooperative.  As with any good roaster, the bags are all marked with the date that the beans were roasted.

Coffee Bags

Coffee Bags

2. You need freshly roasted beans.  I was surprised to learn that after beans are roasted they go through a fairly rapid oxidation process. After two to three weeks they are not going to taste as good as they did.  One way to can track this process is to look for oil on the beans. If you obtain coffee beans that have been recently roasted they will usually have an oily sheen.  That oil will slowly evaporate away as the beans age.

Oily Coffee Beans

Oily Beans

3.  You need to properly grind the beans. For regular coffee, a cheap blade grinder will do. For latte, espresso, and cappuccino, you need to use a burr grinder. These cost between $50 and $1,700, with  very good grinders in the $200 to $360 range.  The goal for a  latte, espresso, and cappuccino is to grind it down to a very fine size.  For Turkish-stye coffee, where the grounds are added directly to the brew, an even finer setting must be available.

Rancilio MD 40 Burr Grinder

Rancilio MD 40 Burr Grinder

4. You need to properly store and then use the beans.  Seal the beans in an air-tight container.  Grind them up and use them within a week or so for best results.

5.  You need to properly brew the coffee.  For American style coffee, it is mostly about water temperature.  I once worked for the coffee division of a large commercial food company and there really isn’t that much difference between coffee machines that just make regular drip coffee. They are basically a steel pot with a heating element and some mechanism for getting the hot water to drop over the ground coffee.  The only way to go wrong is to put in too much or too little coffee or to use an inferior coffee.  The vast majority of corporate coffee is made from Robusta and inferior Arabica beans. These ingredients will not make great coffee. One way to make a better pot of coffee, in my opinion, is to use a French press.  A French press allows the water to be in contact with the grounds for a longer period of time than with a drip mechanism.

A  In order to make a good  espresso, latte, or cappuccino you need an espresso machine. The cheap ($60)  machines available at department stores are likely to be steam-driven.  These are inexpensive and fairly care-free as they have few moving parts. However, they are not going to make a great product. A better choice is a pump-driven machine, which is what you will see at a real coffee shop.

Professional Espresso Machine

Professional Espresso Machine

Pump-driven espresso machines are available at almost any price from $200 on up to nearly infinity. I will save for later a fuller explanation of all of the different types, but some will do almost all of the work for you, others use “pods” made by coffee distributors, and others are mostly manual affairs (semi-automatics):

Gaggia Classic

Gaggia Classic

6.  Make the coffee, espresso, latte, or cappuccino.

The sign of a properly prepared espresso is the crema.  This is the product of the right beans, the right roast, freshness, and proper temperature and pressing.  Enjoy.

Espresso Crema

Espresso Crema


Blind Taste Test #1 Jim Beam v. Maker’s 46

Whiskey Taste Test

Whiskey Taste Test

Time for a blind taste test!  We went down to the liquor cabinet and brought out a few distilled favorites to try.  We decided to see what we could distinguish between the different whiskeys by pitting two different types against each other in a blind test. The method was that one of us would pour a splash of each into two identical tumblers. The tester would turn around while a coin flip determined which went first. We would then repeat the process with the proctor becoming the tester.  I will blend the results.

#1:  Jim Beam v. Maker’s Mark 46. 

Maker’s: Not a big aroma on the first whiff.  Just a hint of oak and alcohol on the first sip.  Tastes are highly blended, and smooth. Rich aftertaste. Fairly light.  

Jim Beam: An oakey smell on the first whiff.  On first taste it had a strong alcohol taste with some fruitiness and that classic burn as it went down.

Comments: Both of these whiskeys are products of Fortune Brands. however, they both have long histories and from what I can tell from other sources, the big corporation has not tinkered too much with the recipe and production method.  The “46″ is Maker’s first new product in 52 years and is an effort to move the brand to an upscale product. I’ve read that the main change from the standard product is that the barrels are opened up and oak planks are inserted for two to three months.  It supposedly takes on stronger hints of caramel, spice, and vanilla. None of those terms were mentioned by either of us testers, so I’ll have to take them at their word.  The real taste test, I suppose, would be to compare the “46″ to a standard bottle of Maker’s.

Jim Beam is of course a mainstay and needs no introduction.  From the taste test, it seemed to be the more potent of the two, with  more alcohol, and roughness but with a lot of flavor.

Between the two, I’d personally prefer the “46 over the Jim Beam.


Snus Hill Winery American Seyval Table Wine

Snus Hill Seyval

Snus Hill Seyval

Snus Hill’s American Seyval is a great white wine.  It is crisp with citrous and some sweet fruit. It is not a sweet wine if you are looking for a typical Iowa sweet wine. It has a bit of tartness at the finish but no bad notes.  This is the wine that first alerted me that people at Snus Hill were trying to make something special with their wines. It is about $12 and fairly hard to find if you are looking for it.  If you are in Iowa, you can have it shipped direct.


Lindemans Bin 65 2009 Chardonnay

Sometimes you don’t

Lindemans 2009 Chardonnay Bin 65

Lindemans 2009 Chardonnay Bin 65

 choose the wine. It chooses you. This happened over Thanksgiving when an acquaintance of one of our family members was visiting and brought a bottle of Lindemans Bin 65 2009 Chardonnay. Normally I would not have chosen a Chardonnay to go along with turkey, stuffing, and all of the other dishes.  They can be a bit too buttery and you want something crisp and acidic to clean the palate (We also had a bottle of Snus Hill Seyval for that purpose).  But, I’d read somewhere that if a guest brings wine, by all means, pop it open and serve it while they are there!  It was all the more important to sample the wine as the guest indicated that it was what her parents favored and it reminded her of home.  Since she was thousands of miles from home, offering up her gift was all the more important.  So, on to the review.

It turns out that this was a fine wine to serve with a Thanksgiving meal. The wine was not one of those super buttery Chardonnays. The butter was present, though not overpowering.  Otherwise, it was a fairly mild wine with some citrous taste on the front end and a hint of oak mixed with the classic chardonnay butter on the back end.  This is an Australian product and I have kind of quit trying Austrailian wines after battling through some fairly rough reds  in the past. But I’ve never tried a white wine from Austrailia, so this was a pleasant surprise.  I looked up the price of the wine and it is about $8-$10 per bottle in most places.  For the price I can recommend it. It is a pleasant white wine and has no bad features.


I really like Plaza Mexico

Everyone has a favorite local place to go when you get really hungry, but don’t want to either visit a fast food or chain restaurant or a pricey white tablecloth restaurant.  Mine is Plaza Mexico on 86th in Johnston. What makes it interesting is that along with the usual Mexican dishes, they also have a wide variety of other meals.  I’ve tried many, though not all (there must be 70 permutations in the menu).  My favorite is the burrito with skirt steak.  The skirt steak straight up is also very good if you know what skirt steak is — prime rib it is not. The service is the best I’ve ever seen this side of the El Paso.  The only Mexican place I’ve been that (maybe) beats it for service is the Montana Restaurant in Ciudad Juárez — and that is only because the Montana turns service into a high art with a Capitan de Meseros presiding over the wait staff from the center of the room. I’ve never seen anything quite like that. So, if you have a hankering for Mexican food try out Plaza Mexico.

You also get a free dessert. Most prices are in the $8.50 to $13 range. If you buy the more expensive Margarita, a taste test proved that you get a more expensive Tequila. So, go for it.

Plaza Mexico Dishes
Plaza Mexico Dishes

6110 NW 85th St.
Johnston, Iowa 50131
515-270-5010

Plaza Mexico on Urbanspoon


Snus Hill Wine Snusalais Nouveau

We had some Snus Hill wine with dinner at Mojos on 86th last year and were surprised to find that it was a big cut above many other Iowa wines.  So, we made the trip to Snus Hill’s winery east of Madrid a couple of times and thoroughly enjoyed the time.  Last week Snus Hill threw a 
Snus Hill Wine Barrels

Snus Hill Aging Barrels

Snusalais Nouveau event, which is intended to be similar to the Beaujolais day celebrated on the third Thursday of November in France. It was a nice opportunity to visit with other wine lovers and to be escorted through the cellar where the grapes are fermented, put into barrels, and racked. We got to taste some Catawba wine in the middle of fermentation. It was much like apple cider.  The completely fermented product was bitter as it had not yet been finished in the barrels. We had some Frontenac straight from the  fermentation tank. It was, as we were told, high in acid and low in tannins.  Actually, Iowa wines tend to have those characteristics, as opposed to west coast wines which are high in tannins and low in acid. We also got to try some Frontenac straight from the racking barrel. it was much closer to the finished product. 

We were impressed with the owners’ concern and love of their craft and their commitment to make great wine here in Iowa. I will continue to tout this great wine every chance I get. It is great stuff.

http://snushillwine.com/


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