The Boiler Room is one in a category of restaurants which I don’t get around to reviewing very often: Officially Great Places. My pedigree as a “restaurant critic” is humble and you won’t find me revising Michelin ratings anytime soon. That’s not to say I don’t go to the Boiler Room often or find its fare daunting; quite the contrary. My opinion, shared by many, is that the Boiler Room is a regional gem, making food the scope and quality of which is normally found in cities much grander than Omaha.
I also feel that once I start departing my comfortable dive bars and diners I begin to tread on the toes of critics of Much Greater Significance than myself. So to back me up I’ve acquired the help of that other titan of regional cuisine: fellow conspirator and blogmate Distilled Iowan, with whom I have shared this article.
The experience of the Boiler Room rewards the adventurous (and carnivorous) diner. Typical dishes include bone marrow, boar’s head, ox tongue, swordfish, and charcuterie. It is all served with an almost religious devotion to the consumption of meat.
The Boiler Room takes very seriously its duty to provide expertly prepared meat to local carnivores. The food does not hide behind veggies and meat, and you will not find a wide selection of vegetables.
The Boiler Room brazenly flaunts its devotion to the eating of all sorts of animals. Instead of garnishing swordfish filet with green beans (which the Boiler Room did the last time I ordered swordfish) it lays the swordfish on a bed of baby octopi. I’d never eaten baby octopi, and they were tender and delicious.
The meals we have had at the Boiler Room, meat and otherwise, have always been excellent, front to back. The mixed drinks are up there with the Side Door in creativity and excellence. The wine pairings are brilliant and reliable (and the wine is affordable and excellent). The dessert, while not their strong suit, is always wonderful and worth saving room for. The coffee and espresso puts most coffee shops to shame.
If you love local cuisine, wine, and especially meat cooked with gourmet flair, then the Boiler Room is your temple.